Enter the world of the Mountain's phantom in Chile
Patagonia pumas
This epic experience happens in the pristine Torres del Paine national park in Chile and into an Estancia (ranch) nearby the park. It's an intense concentrate of everything : scenic Patagonian drives, epic 4x4 adventure in the hills, hiking and watching pumas in their daily life, understanding the balance between the puma and the guanaco, enjoying the lights on the famous mountain range Torres del Paine.
Torres del Paine national park is known as the World's 8th natural wonder, and as soon as we penetrate into this remote wildlife sanctuary we understand why.
The wildlife here can be easily spotted, like guanacos, condors, Nandus...except the puma (cougar)
This elusive feline can be pretty hard to find and even harder to observe.
That's where we come in.
With years of experience in the field, escorted by the best puma trackers, helped by powerful binoculars and thermal scopes, and above all the knowledge of how to read nature, we'd be thrilled to make you live a trip of a lifetime.
We leave our confortable ranch's room before sunrise, and come back after sunset to enjoy a good Patagonian diner.
But I want to be in the field at dusk and down for you to get the best lights and the more intense puma activities.
The balance Puma-guanaco
The guanaco is closely related to the llama. They live in harem led by a dominating male, who protect the females and juveniles.
The other males throwed out by the dominant play a key role being lookout.
They stay on top of the hills, using their excellent vision to scan the valleys to alert the group after spotting a puma.
But these solitary individuals could be an easier target for the puma.
If a puma is spotted, he sometimes hides and rests behind a bush. The hunt is not over, indeed guanacos have a short memory (less than an hour) so they forget about the puma presence and the predation is still on.
In accordance with the puma tracker we position ourselves to be in the front row, without ruining the predation of course.
It's a matter of anticipation and knowledge, and this is exactly when it becomes important to work with the best trackers.
a fabulous sunrise light means it's the start of a new intense day
The background
Torres del Paine national park is located in Patagonia, Chile.
It's a 2h drive from Puerto Natales and 4h from Punta Arenas.
Both of these cities have direct flight to Santiago.
The park encompasses lakes, glaciers, rivers, waterfalls and the masterpiece the cordillera (mountain range) del Paine.
The estancia nearby the park is a vast private area where pumas live in a high density rate, benefiting protection and a stable guanaco population.
Driving by 4x4 in these hills off the beaten tracks is an epic adventure in itself!
The weather can change in a snap, it's not unusual to get snow, rain, and bright sun on the same week.
a lookout guanaco scanning the whole area
A female walking in stealth mode eyes fixed on her prey
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Sunrise and sunset can be mesmerizing and the light is always different from day to day
The public road can be seen down the hills, but the true action begins when we climb the hill by 4x4. This is the Estancia area.
The predation is a matter of patience both for the puma and us. The puma (on the left part of the picture) move very slowly and only when the guanaco is grazing.
When the puma is close enough, he leaps and try to attack the guanaco's throat. A life and death battle ensues. But only 10% of the predations succeed.
The puma can now call back her cub to feed on the carcass.
But beware of the males. Much stronger than the females, they can easily chase the females and take over the carcass, if no killing the cubs. Here is Dark, Torres del Paine's alpha male.
ITINERARY
It's a 7 days 6 nights trip exclusive for 3 to 4 guests.
We don't want to be more for you to get the best interaction.
1st day :
we pick you up at Puerto Natales airport. It's a direct flight from/to Santiago.
We drive to our hotel, a very comfortable ranch located nearby the park.
We have a briefing at diner around a good Patagonian meal.
We'll explain you the guidelines and can chat about photography if you are interested in.
2nd to 6th day :
we drive to the park before sunrise to enjoy the pristine morning lights. We join our puma tracker and communicate with him by walkie talkie.
It's time to enter into the Estancia, the puma world...
The hardest part is to find the cat. So we use different techniques (thermal scopes, binoculars...) but above all we read the fauna, it's the best clue.
We explore the hills by 4x4, and when we get pumas, we leave the car and keep up walking. At this point, we have to adapt to the puma. He might be just resting, or eating a carcass, mating, having fun with his cubs...but he can also be in predation mode. This is the most exciting behavior however that means we could have to walk for long time, sometimes pretty quick. But it worths it, besides it's a walk in one of the nicest place in the world.
The day is usually split in 2 half days because the action happens early in the morning and late in the afternoon. Like cats, pumas need to sleep in the day.
We take advantage of this break to have lunch, to explore the park and visit the best sites (waterfall, magnificent views...)
we come back to the ranch at sunset or after sunset, depending of the action and what you want to do.
I really don't want to schedule the day, and if you want to stay more time in the field even by night to do stargazing, it's fine, we totally adapt.
We also can come back earlier if you want and call it a day, before sharing a good diner at the estancia, and share our experience.
7th day :
We leave after breakfast. We can stop at a small gift shop (local products) then we drive you to Puerto Natales going through the park.
But we still can find pumas and guanacos on the way out.
Following our puma tracker before entering into the hills at sunrise
When we find pumas it's time to leave the cars and go for a walk.
DATES AND RATE
2025 :
May 18th to 24th : 7900$ per pax. (Sold out)
May 24th to 30th : 7900$ per pax (Sold out)
September 7th to 13th : 7900$ per pax (Sold out)
September 13th to 19th : 7900$ per pax (sold out)
2026 :
May 9th to 15th : 7900$ Pex pax (available)
May 15th to 21st : 7900$ per pax (2 remaining)
Deposit : 2000$ non refundable
You want a private tour? We can arrange it any time
of the year, feel free to ask us.
This is a fixed total price, from 1 to 4 people. The price per pax
is obviously cheaper if you are 4. It's a 7d/6n minimum with
5 days in the field, but we can adapt if you want more days.
What is included/excluded
Included : everything but the flights and drinks at diner, that means :
- 5 days permit and fees sold by the Estancia
- 5 days guided tour by ourselves and one of the best puma tracker
- permit and fees for Torres del Paine national park
- 6 nights in a confortable ranch nearby the park
- all meals
- 4x4 and combustibles
- transportation from/to Puerto Natales airport
- a parting gift
- Our commitment : we do not count the hours. We've seen tour
operators leaving the field at 5pm while a major action was happening, to
strictly follow the schedule 9am to 5pm. We repudiate that kind of behavior.
We are truly passionate people, not service providers.
Excluded :
- international and national flights
- extras like alcohol
- international insurance (mandatory)
- tips
Romain and Marcial one of our puma tracker
Cecile photographing a puma during a snow storm (winter)
The best time to do the trip
We experienced all the seasons many time, and to be honest we have 2 preferences :
- fall season (late April-may) :
the trees are adorned in gold and red. It can be chilly by day but pumas are pretty active to be prepared for the winter coming.
There are good chances of snow, and superb landscape photo opportunities with the snow partly covering the red foliage of the trees.
- winter season (July to September) :
usually the park takes on its white coat. Days are shorter but this means that puma activities are more concentrated during the day and they are easier to spot by their footprint.
There are good chances for predation because they need calories during the harsh winter. It's pretty cold (0 to -15 celsius) but you don't feel it when you walk alongside a puma and her cubs. Winter lights are mesmerizing , sunset can offer a purple sky. Winter is magical, but it must be earned and is not for everyone.
A puma in his stunning fall environment
What else we can see
Sometimes when traveling you focus on a particular animal which can be the only interesting subject of the trip.
It's totally the opposite here.
First it's not only about pumas. Guanacos are everywhere. They are remarkably adapted to this place, with their excellent eyesight and their social organization positioning lookouts almost everywhere.
We'll see some interesting behavior, like dust bathing, sometimes fighting,...
They are an excellent subject for photographers as well so if you are a photographer, we'll position yourself to get the best picture playing with the sun light, for exemple to get guanacos backlighted.
When they spot a puma they make an alarm noise very peculiar.
Sunsets at Torres del Paine are mesmerizing. We can often feel the unique purity of one of the last true wilderness area accessible. Sometimes Mother Nature allows us to witness a predation, bringing us back to reality and this duel of life and death between these remarkable animals.
Birds are also well represented.
The iconic one is obviously the great condor, we'll see it planning in high altitude.
The cara cara is well identifiable too, with its colorful beak.
Both of them are scavenger and if we see a lot of them flying in circle,
that probably means there's a carcass somewhere.
The loita bird is a small red throat bird emblematic of Patagonia.
We'll probably get some Nandu (rheas) , distantly related to Ostrich.
Some condors flying over a carcass in winter
MAJOR GUIDELINES
It's mandatory to follow some rules in this natural environment.
The first one is always to listen the guide and the puma tracker. They will position you to get the best encounter.
Never run. Pumas don't care about people and it's common that a puma walks really close to you (sometimes a meter away). In this case you have to stand, don't do sudden movements, keep your eyes on the puma.
Everything will be alright as long as you respect these rules.
And again, never run. Like any predator, pumas may see you as a prey.
When we are with pumas, don't talk, don't make noise.
There's nothing more amazing than enjoying the pumas in absolute silence, not to mention that you could disturb them.
When we are with pumas we often have to walk, sometimes quickly and over long distances on a hilly terrain with many obstacles like bushes.
So you have to be in good shape and ready for that. The more physically fit you are, the better your experience will be.
Good hiking shoes are essential as well.
Terms & Conditions and cancellation policy
review our Liability waiver we'll ask you to fill to secure your booking.
A cara cara taken during a snow storm
Some rheas (Nandus) running in the vast plains nearby the scenic road leading to the park
The Hotel
It's a ranch located in the nearest town of the park.
It's an authentic lodge own by a welcoming family who takes care of the guests.
The rooms are comfortable, the wooden floors, light colors and leather armchairs provide an intimate, quiet atmosphere and create a conducive relaxing environment , ideal to share a good glass of chilean wine .
We'll have our breakfast (buffet) and diner at the ranch's restaurant. They'll prepare us a box meal for lunch (we'll have lunch in the park)
The road that leads to the park is a Patagonian typical scenic drive flanked by vast plains where we often get groups of guanacos, nandus, and even sometimes gauchos showing their amazing abilities.
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The famous Petaka, probably the most known puma here. For sure one of the best hunters.
What to bring
It's a remote place where the weather is unpredictable. We'll have to be prepared for wind, snow, bright sun, heavy rain, sometimes everything on the same day.
We'll hike on a hilly rugged terrain, sometimes rocky.
So here is a list to feel good anytime :
- base layer tops x2: Merino wool recommended
- base layer pant x1 or 2 : Merino wool recommended
- middle layer tops x2 : polartec 200 recommended
- Top layer pants : good hiking pants
- in case of heavy rain : gore tex splash proof pants
- gore tex jacket
- in case of extreme cold (winter) : down jacket splash proof
- 3 pairs of hiking socks (merino recommended)
- good high hiking shoes (gore tex recommended), must cover the ankle)
- good gloves adapted for cold : your hands will be the first thing to get cold. I personally use heating gloves.
- camera bag with rain cover
- optional : walking poles
- camera :
action can happens at any distance. In my experience, the lenses I used the most are a 600mm (sometimes I add a 1.4x converter) and a long zoom lens (like 100-300 or 100-500). I rarely use short focal lenses but it's always good to have a 24-70mm in your bag, mostly for landscapes)
If I had to bring only one lens I'd go for a long zoom lens like a 100-500mm.
- camera rain cover : I highly recommend you to bring this item.
- tripod or monopod : for sure the best item is a tripod, but it could be inconvenient while walking long distances, and long to set up. I first went with a tripod but quickly switched to a good carbon monopod, light and quick to set up.